Hitoe (unlined kimono)
Silk
Stenciled warps, supplementary wefts

This quiet hitoe has two interesting design elements: a rose in the Charles Rennie Macintosh style and a stylized butterfly so large its entire wingspan cannot be shown.

While butterflies are a common kimono motif, most designers understandably elaborate the wings. On this kimono, the designer has done the opposite, paring the wings down to near geometetric shapes, and confronting the viewer with the eyes, thorax and antennae – the parts people are usually less enamored of. Yet this is done to great effect. The photo below shows the full width of a sleeve panel, with the butterfly so large its wingspan can only be inferred.

The flower has supplementary weft threads in yellow silk. Most often, supplementary threads are cut off on the back. These are cut off on the front, and the cut edges form small tassles, incorporating nicely into the design. The two pale dots to the left of the flower’s yellow center are flaws where the dye failed to take.

Compare this to a stained glass rose designed by Macintosh around the turn of the 20th century.

Summer kimonos are often woven in ro, an open weave that gives the appearance of horizontal stripes. This fabric is lightweight and has horizontal stripes, but on closer inspection the the horizontal lines are made by alternating two rows of light colored weft threads with two rows of darker threads.

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