Goshodoki kosode (kimono for woman of the military aristocracy)
Chirimen crepe silk, plain weave silk, silk embroidery thread, waste silk padding, gilt thread
Yuzen dyeing, embroidery, couching

Goshodoki refers to a type of design featuring trees, flowering plants, streams, and indirect references to human presence, such as seen here by the pair of curtains and the bow and arrows. Goshodoki designs allude to well known scenes in Japanese literature, which a well bred person would be expected to recognize. The military aristocracy emphasized tradition and continuity to justify its right to rule, so aristocratic garments, while luxurious and well crafted, often lacked originality and were thematically rigid. Garments of the merchant class, or of those of the so-called ‘floating world’ on the other hand, displayed far more thematic freedom.

In the close-up below, some of the leaves are decorated with a kind of cross-hatching.  This is kata kanoko (stenciled fawn dot).  True kanoko, a tie resist, would cause a raised surface.  Kata kanoko leaves the surface flat.  Kata kanoko was employed as a stylistic choice, not an economing measure.

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