Noragi (field wear); jacket
Asa (hemp)
Katazome (stenciled)

This shape is designed for utility. The sleeves are short and narrow, so they protect without hindering movement; the jacket is cut off before the knees, where it would suffer abrasion. The design looks like warp and weft kasuri from a distance, but in fact the cross-hatching is stenciled, and made to mimic the more expensive kasuri technique. The material is stenciled on both sides, so the design stands out crisply. The repeat is small, and it is possible to see ten horizontal intervals – five on the right panel and five on the left panel (neatly aligned, to the maker’s credit) where the small paper stencil was placed on the material, and then moved forward to the next blank space after the spreading of the resist paste. On the weaving level, it is interesting to note the varying degrees of twist in the warp threads (see close-up below).