Yosegire (patchwork) juban (underkimono)
Silk, cotton (lining), nylon(?)
Itajimezome (board clamp resist), damask, katazome(?)

This yosegire juban is made of a variety of different materials. The haneri (collar, below) is made of a synthetic material (nylon?) that only appeared in the 20th century. Note the high dimensionality possible with synthetics. The haneri is probably a newer addition to an older garment.

The outer sleeves and hem are of chirimen – a highly twisted and textured silk – resisted with a design of men doing the sparrow dance, performed during festivals.

Birds and butterflies were two of many popular motifs in itajimezome on tsumugi silk. On this large design, only one full repeat can be seen.

The sleeves are lined with a very soft pale white figured twill, with auspicious designs of cranes and tortoises, pine, plum, bamboo and others. (Double click for a close-up view.)

The waist has been folded over by more than an inch, and stitched down in a temporary manner. The sleeves were also originally longer. The extra material has been sewn into the base of the sleeve, in case at some point the wearer wished to lengthen them again.

The ties at the back have a cotton center for strength, and a silk outer that does not match any of the other materials. Some of the silk is missing, exposing the cotton core.

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