Double kasuri

This is an odd piece of kasuri, partly because the pictorial designs are crudely drawn and executed, and partly because the designs – an umbrella and a boat with its anchor – are not normally paired. Perhaps there is a subtle visual pun, or a name reference.

Only the well cribs are double kasuri. The umbrellas and boats are rendered in weft kasuri. In the well cribs, where the resisted white warps meet the resisted white wefts, the material is a bright white. Since the umbrellas and boats are only weft kasuri, the white is more muted since it is less concentrated.

Although this panel contains unbrellas and boats, since it is weft kasuri the weaver could change her mind, if she wished, and insert a different weft design at this point in the cloth. The wefts for the well cribs must be inserted at a specific location for the design to match with the warps, but the weft-only designs are actually up to the weaver as she progresses up the length of the cloth.