yosegire juban back Daily Japanese Textile IMG_5006

Girl’s underkimono (Juban)
Silk, wool, cotton, silk wadding
Shibori, itajimezome (board clamp resist) stenciling

This is a woman’s winter underkimono. A thin layer of silk floss padding between the surface and the lining served to trap and retain heat. The semi-tubular hem, also padded, adds some weight and bulk to the garment, helping keep it in place.

yosegire juban front Daily Japanese Textile IMG_5016

The Japanese had numerous ways of making red dye, but the vibrant red produced by safflower was particularly prized. It can be difficult to determine the source of a dye, but in the case of safflower, a fugitive dye, sometimes a stain will provide a clue. In the photo below, the yellowish tinge in the round stain is a good indicator that the dye was safflower. Safflower was often used with clamp resist.

yosegire juban Daily stain in safflower Japanese Textile IMG_5008

A close-up of the collar materials. This juban contains several auspicious designs.

yosegire juban collar Daily Japanese Textile IMG_5018

A close-up of the shibori on tsumugi silk.

yosegire juban shibori Daily Japanese Textile IMG_5011

A close up of the fine soft woven wool lining.

yosegire juban wool lining Daily Japanese Textile IMG_5025